Guatemala’s Beautiful Rio Dulce and Lake Izabal
Some close friends of mine recently went on a Central American cruise stopping at several ports, including the port of Santo Tomás, on Guatemala’s Caribbean coast. Their experience was less than ideal, unfortunately as they felt harassed and hounded by aggressive vendors, taxi touts and numerous other people at the port, all trying to separate them from their money. Not surprisingly, within a few minutes they’d had enough and retreated to the comfort of their luxurious cruise ship.
As this is unfortunate experience is in no way representative of Guatemala, I felt compelled to write a post about some of the highlights of this area of exquisite natural beauty so that others may have a more enjoyable experience in this wonderful country.
Río Dulce National Park is one of Guatemala’s oldest and most beautiful parks. A mere 7 miles from the port of Santo Tomás, it’s very easily accessed on a day trip from a cruise ship or as part of a longer tour of the country. The park straddles the 20 mile-long waterway that connects inland Lake Izabal with the Caribbean Sea. The riverbank, all the way to the lake is covered in lush, dense tropical forest and is home to a large variety of aquatic birds and wildlife. About 15 minutes upstream from the mouth of the river, there is a spectacular, 300 foot high, jungle covered canyon called La Cueva De La Vaca. Around this area are some excellent ecolodges that are a perfect place to stop for a refreshing drink before you continue upstream.
El Golfete is a location on the river where a warm spring emerges from the underwater base of a cliff, providing an excellent place to take a swim, surrounded by the lush tropical forest. There is a pier here so you can choose from swimming in the warm spring water by the shore or the cooler river water at the end of the pier, 30 feet away. There’s also a bar and shop selling locally made handicrafts here, run by the local community.
Just upstream from the hot springs is an area that is home to a dwindling population of manatees. These slow moving aquatic mammals are very elusive and although it is thought that fewer than 100 inhabit this region, it’s common to see them here.
Just before entering Río Dulce town, you’ll pass the impressive mega-mansions of Guatemala’s rich and famous. It’s worth stopping in town to sample some local seafood at one of the waterfront restaurants. Inland from the town is Lake Izabal, Guatemala’s largest lake. The Castillo De San Felipe is a historic Spanish fort, dating from 1652 in an attempt to deter the activities of pirates who would come upriver to steal settlers’ supplies. The fort today houses a small museum and is worth a visit for its lovely lakeside setting.
Not far away is Finca El Paraíso, where a 35 foot-high warm waterfall plunges into a clear pool cooled by surrounding streams. Soaking here in the pool is a wonderful experience as you are surrounded by the sounds of the tropical forest around you.
Heading downstream again from the lake, the town of Livingston is an interesting place to visit before returning to Santo Tomás. Livingston is a Garifuna settlement that has the feel of a Caribbean town. The clapboard buildings and sounds of reggae and punta rock coming from the town’s bars and restaurants complete the Caribbean atmosphere, and it’s a great place to spend a couple of hours meeting the friendly locals over a few beers.
This little visited part of Guatemala is a real gem, with welcoming, friendly people and beautiful, exotic scenery. Taking a day-trip upriver from the port of Santo Tomás will undoubtedly leave you with a thirst for a return trip to see more of this amazing country.
Learn more about Guatemala on our website – www.blueworldjourneys.com/guatemala.html